Pettorano sul Gizio, 625 m: the village of the Cantelmo castle

Pettorano stands on the Gizio river, south of Sulmona, where the Valle Peligna closes and the road climbs towards Rocca Pia, Roccaraso and the Altopiani Maggiori. The municipality lies in the Majella National Park and includes the hamlet of Vallelarga and the station on the Sulmona – Carpinone railway.

The village grew in the Middle Ages around a Norman watchtower. It passed to the Angevins, to the Caldora family and in the 16th century to the Cantelmo of Popoli. The 1706 Majella earthquake devastated it and it was rebuilt in the 18th century: thanks to its well-preserved old town it is now one of the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy. The village keeps the only Greek fragment found in the West of Diocletian’s Edict on Prices.

The Cantelmo castle

One of the main fortresses of the Valle Peligna, built by the Normans in the 11th century and later held by the Angevins and the Cantelmo. After the 1706 earthquake half of the castle became the owners’ residence; they gave it to the municipality in 1977. The Norman pentagonal tower and two smaller towers survive; inside there is a room devoted to polenta rognosa, and it is the visitor centre of the Monte Genzana reserve. For opening times and visits call the reserve (0864 487006).

The churches

The parish church of the Blessed Virgin Mary and San Dionisio, in Piazza Umberto I, dates from the 15th century, built for the Cantelmo and remodelled in 1718: inside are gilded chapels, 18th-century paintings by Vincenzo Figluolino and a 14th-century wooden crucifix. San Nicola di Bari keeps its medieval façade with a Romanesque portal; Sant’Antonio di Padova has a neoclassical façade and wooden statues; San Rocco was built after 1656.

Palaces and gates

Palazzo La Castaldina, seat of the Cantelmo administrators, has a baroque façade of 1794 and a private chapel. La Locanda, near the castle, was the post station for changing horses; King Ferdinand II of Bourbon stayed at Palazzo Vitto Massei in 1832. Of the medieval gates, Porta San Marco, Porta Santa Margherita, Porta San Nicola with its 1656 fresco, Porta del Mulino and Porta Cencio survive. In Piazza Umberto I stands the 1897 fountain with Neptune and Amphitrite.

The Industrial Archaeology Park

Below the village, along the Gizio, an open-air trail tells the story of the mills and workshops powered by water. Information from the reserve.

The Monte Genzana and Alto Gizio nature reserve has its headquarters in the village and protects woods, beech forests and the course of the Gizio, the «icy waters» sung by Ovid, once rich in brown trout. Bears and wolves live here, along with peregrine falcons, goshawks, honey buzzards and hobbies. Trails lead from the village to the Gizio springs and Monte Genzana; more routes in the Majella Park hiking guide.

The SS17 takes you in about 26 km (half an hour) to the slopes of Roccaraso and the Alto Sangro, via Rocca Pia. On the other side, via Cansano, are the lifts of Campo di Giove, about 25 km away. Snow and lifts open today in the snow report.

On 6 January, in Piazza Umberto I, the historic polenta rognosa festival takes place: polenta cooked in a copper cauldron, cut with a string and topped with a sauce of meat, sausage and pecorino. The date may change: check the municipal website.

The village dish is polenta rognosa, served in several of the village restaurants. From the Valle Peligna come Sulmona red garlic and Sulmona confetti; home-style dishes include sagne and beans. More products in Flavours of the parks, all the recipes in traditional Abruzzo cuisine.

By car: A25 Rome – Pescara motorway, Sulmona-Pratola Peligna exit, then the SS17 towards Roccaraso; Sulmona is about 10 km away, Roccaraso 26, Scanno 37. By train: Pettorano sul Gizio station is on the Sulmona – Carpinone line; the nearest main station is Sulmona, with lines to Rome, Pescara and L’Aquila. Getting around Abruzzo.

• Municipality of Pettorano sul Gizio: 0864 48115 · municipal website
• Monte Genzana and Alto Gizio nature reserve: 0864 487006
• Emergencies and mountain rescue: 112 · 118

• Sulmona, the town of Ovid and confetti
• Introdacqua and the villages of the Valle Peligna
• Roccaraso, Rivisondoli and Pescocostanzo
• The villages of the Majella National Park