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San Domenico in Cocullo – 897 m

Travelling through Abruzzo, today we went to Cocullo. For some years I had wanted to go there on the first Thursday of May (now 1 May), the day of the feast of San Domenico di Sora Abate, protector against poisons. This ancient festival is believed to date back to pre-Roman times and to have remained practically intact over the years. The very old rite is thought to have begun as a pagan cult of the goddess Angitia, protector against poisons


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Travelling through Abruzzo, today we went to Cocullo. For some years I had wanted to go there on the first Thursday of May (now 1 May), the day of the feast of San Domenico di Sora Abate, protector against poisons. This ancient festival is believed to date back to pre-Roman times and to have remained practically intact over the years. The very old rite is thought to have begun as a pagan cult of the goddess Angitia, protector against poisons



The feast of San Domenico and the snake-handlers’ rite in Cocullo, Abruzzo, province of L’Aquila: the procession and the wait for it during Mass


Travelling through Abruzzo, today we went to Cocullo. For some years I had wanted to go there on the first Thursday of May (now 1 May), the day of the feast of San Domenico di Sora Abate, protector against poisons. This ancient festival is believed to date back to pre-Roman times and to have remained practically intact over the years. The very old rite is thought to have begun as a pagan cult of the goddess Angitia, protector against poisons.
It is a very well-known and well-attended festival in the area, always talked about, but I had never been.
This year we decided to go, so we got organised and set off. Ale had the idea of leaving the motorway at Pescina. It soon proved a "good call", both because we avoided much of the festival traffic and because the road between Pescina and Cocullo revealed many scenic wonders we did not expect. This valley is lush, well kept and flooded with sun: a real show that already suggests the day will be perfect.
We get quite close to the village by car, so we only have a short walk to the main square. Already I am amazed at how many people this festival attracts. I had heard of it, of course, but I never expected this festive atmosphere and this sea of people crowding through the village towards the heart of the event. We join the flow pouring into the square and, as soon as we arrive, we begin to see the "serpari" (snake handlers).
The peculiarity of the festival is that snakes are the main attraction: some people carry them around as if they were pets and offer to "lend" them to visitors for souvenir photos.
The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo

Could we miss this chance? Of course not! So there I am with a nice little snake slithering along my arm, smiling at the camera and hoping he likes me!

The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo

After the customary photos we wait eagerly for the procession, the high point of the festival. And now we are asked to make way for the band... what luck... we happen to be at the exact spot in the square where the procession will pass, so we will see it from very close up!!!
The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo

First comes the band, then the women in traditional costume with baskets full of local sweets... hungry as we are, the ciambellone of Cocullo looks like a real speciality (a pity they did not let us taste it!!). A few local dignitaries and some of the faithful who have slipped into the procession, and then comes the main attraction: the statue of San Domenico, on which, as it left the church, all the "serpari" have placed their snakes, which now take a nice stroll over the statue as it is carried along. A few more photos and then it all ends, but not before the firing of the fireworks, another high point of the festival. Then the crowd thins out towards the stalls and we rush to buy the fantastic sausage roll that always makes us think of feast days... delicious!!!

The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo The procession and the wait for it during Mass in Cocullo

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