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The villages of the Valle Subequana

A green, quiet valley below Monte Sirente, where the Paeligni already had one of their capitals, Superaequum. Towers, castles, medieval churches and trails climbing to the Prati del Sirente, less than two hours from Rome.


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Villages of the Valle Subequana: Castelvecchio Subequo, Secinaro, Gagliano Aterno and around



Sirente-Velino Regional Park

The Valle Subequana: ancient villages between the Sirente and the Aterno

A green, quiet valley below Monte Sirente, where the Paeligni already had one of their capitals, Superaequum. Towers, castles, medieval churches and trails climbing to the Prati del Sirente, less than two hours from Rome.

Villages Trekking Archaeology Castles Sirente
Information checked against official sources
Altitude 490–860 m
Park Sirente-Velino

Quick navigation

By car

Getting there

  • From Rome: A24 and A25 to the Cocullo exit, then the SS 5 Tiburtina Valeria over the Forca Caruso pass, down to Goriano Sicoli and Castel di Ieri.
  • From L’Aquila: the SR 261 Subequana runs down the Aterno valley to Molina Aterno and Castelvecchio Subequo.
  • By train: Molina-Castelvecchio Subequo station is on the L’Aquila–Sulmona line.
  • From the Altopiano delle Rocche: the Sirentina provincial road descends to Secinaro below the Sirente.
The village

Castelvecchio Subequo 490 m

Altitude
490 m
Municipality
Castelvecchio Subequo

The valley’s main village, on a rocky spur at the foot of the Sirente. It keeps the convent of San Francesco with medieval frescoes and traces of ancient Superaequum: remains of baths, a temple of Hercules and a 4th-century Christian cemetery.

Things to do

Did you know? This was the site of Superaequum, one of the three capitals of the Paeligni with Corfinio and Sulmona: the whole «Subequana» valley takes its name from it.

Local food

  • Pecora alla callara — Mutton cooked for hours in a copper cauldron with herbs and chilli, the shepherds’ dish.
  • Sagne e ceci (pasta with chickpeas) — Homemade flour-and-water pasta cut into pieces and cooked with chickpeas: a humble, tasty mountain first course.
  • Fiadone — The Easter savoury pastry: a dough parcel filled with cheese and eggs that puffs up in the oven.

Useful numbers

Where to eat in Castelvecchio Subequo

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The village

Castel di Ieri 519 m

Altitude
519 m
Municipality
Castel di Ieri

A compact village on a hill, its streets spiralling up to the great medieval tower. Just outside the village is the Italic Temple, one of the valley’s most important archaeological sites.

Things to do

Did you know? The tower overlooking the village is about twenty metres high with walls some three metres thick: from the top the view sweeps 360 degrees over the whole valley.

Local food

  • Arrosticini — Mutton skewers grilled over embers, the symbol of Abruzzo cooking.
  • Sagne e fagioli — Flour-and-water pasta cut into pieces and cooked with beans, tomato and chilli.
  • L’Aquila liver sausage — Horseshoe-shaped, spicy or sweet with honey: eaten on Easter morning. A Slow Food Presidium.

Useful numbers

Where to eat in Castel di Ieri

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The village

Goriano Sicoli 720 m

Altitude
720 m
Municipality
Goriano Sicoli

The highest village of the valley floor, in the southern part of the Valle Subequana, with its bell tower on the old castle of the Counts of Celano. It is close to the Forca Caruso pass and to Cocullo.

Things to do

Did you know? On some 17th-century maps the village is called «Gordianum Siccum», dry Goriano, because of its low rainfall: storms often stop over the Sirente or the valley below.

Local food

  • Grilled lamb and coratella — Lamb chops on the embers and coratella (offal) in the pan with onion and artichokes.
  • Sagne e ceci (pasta with chickpeas) — Homemade flour-and-water pasta cut into pieces and cooked with chickpeas: a humble, tasty mountain first course.
  • Fiadone — The Easter savoury pastry: a dough parcel filled with cheese and eggs that puffs up in the oven.

Useful numbers

Where to eat in Goriano Sicoli

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The village

Gagliano Aterno 650 m

Altitude
650 m
Municipality
Gagliano Aterno

A medieval village dominated by its castle, later a Barberini residence, with the Gothic church of San Martino and the former convent of Santa Chiara. After the 2009 earthquake it became a model of revival for small villages.

Things to do

Did you know? The village has won European awards such as the New European Bauhaus prize for its revival after the earthquake: new residents, an energy community and even a village web radio.

Local food

Useful numbers

Where to eat in Gagliano Aterno

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The village

Secinaro 859 m

Altitude
859 m
Municipality
Secinaro

The valley’s highest village, set against the Sirente. From here the Sirentina road climbs to the Prati del Sirente and the Altopiano delle Rocche, and trails lead to the face of Monte Sirente.

Things to do

Did you know? On the Prati del Sirente there is a round pond about 140 metres across: some scientists think it is the crater of an ancient meteorite, others a watering hole dug by shepherds. The mystery is still unsolved.

Local food

  • Pecora alla callara — Mutton cooked for hours in a copper cauldron with herbs and chilli, the shepherds’ dish.
  • Arrosticini — Mutton skewers grilled over embers, the symbol of Abruzzo cooking.
  • Grilled lamb and coratella — Lamb chops on the embers and coratella (offal) in the pan with onion and artichokes.

Useful numbers

Where to eat in Secinaro

↑ All villages

The village

Molina Aterno 512 m

Altitude
512 m
Municipality
Molina Aterno

A village perched above the Aterno at the entrance to the valley, with Palazzo Piccolomini overlooking the square and the church of the Madonna del Colle at the top of the village.

Things to do

Did you know? The name comes from the mills once driven by the waters of the Aterno; «Aterno» was only added in 1889.

Local food

  • Sagne e ceci (pasta with chickpeas) — Homemade flour-and-water pasta cut into pieces and cooked with chickpeas: a humble, tasty mountain first course.
  • L’Aquila liver sausage — Horseshoe-shaped, spicy or sweet with honey: eaten on Easter morning. A Slow Food Presidium.
  • Fiadone — The Easter savoury pastry: a dough parcel filled with cheese and eggs that puffs up in the oven.

Useful numbers

Where to eat in Molina Aterno

↑ All villages

At the table

Food and traditions

Local dishes and products, with the recipes and guides on our site.

The valley’s food is that of the shepherds and farmers of the L’Aquila area: mutton and lamb, pulses, homemade pasta and pork charcuterie.

  • Pecora alla callara — Mutton cooked for hours in a copper cauldron with herbs and chilli, the shepherds’ dish.
  • Arrosticini — Mutton skewers grilled over embers, the symbol of Abruzzo cooking.
  • Grilled lamb and coratella — Lamb chops on the embers and coratella (offal) in the pan with onion and artichokes.
  • Sagne e ceci (pasta with chickpeas) — Homemade flour-and-water pasta cut into pieces and cooked with chickpeas: a humble, tasty mountain first course.
  • Sagne e fagioli — Flour-and-water pasta cut into pieces and cooked with beans, tomato and chilli.
  • L’Aquila liver sausage — Horseshoe-shaped, spicy or sweet with honey: eaten on Easter morning. A Slow Food Presidium.
  • Zafferano dell’Aquila PDO saffron — The red gold of the Navelli plateau: stigmas picked at dawn and dried over embers.
  • Fiadone — The Easter savoury pastry: a dough parcel filled with cheese and eggs that puffs up in the oven.

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