Volarelle in meat broth

Since we started writing about Abruzzo we have made plenty of «discoveries of the obvious»: one is that volarelle in broth are not an international dish but a local one. Elsewhere the classic is tortellini, and people who are not from Abruzzo often look at us puzzled: «what on earth is that?».

In Abruzzo volarelle are made in many ways; our favourite version is the simplest: egg pasta cut into little squares and cooked in meat broth.

For the volarelle (per person)

• 1 egg
• Durum wheat semolina as needed (or plain flour)
• A pinch of salt

For the broth (serves 4)

• Mixed meat: beef and turkey, or a boiling hen (even a whole chicken)
• 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 celery stick
• Coarse salt

1. Make the broth: put the meat and vegetables in cold water, bring to the boil and simmer for 2–3 hours, skimming at the start. Season and strain.
2. Knead egg, flour and salt as for egg pasta: add flour until the texture feels right, then stop.
3. Roll out the dough with a rolling pin (or a pasta machine), not too thin.
4. Cut the sheet into ribbons and then the ribbons into little squares.
5. Bring the broth to the boil and add the volarelle.
6. Cook them for about a minute from when the broth returns to the boil and serve straight away.

• Durum wheat semolina gives firmer volarelle; plain flour makes them softer.
• Let the squares dry for a few minutes on a floured cloth: they will stay separate when cooking.
• A sprinkle of parmesan or pecorino in the bowl never hurts.
• The meat from the broth is served as a main course, with sauces or pickles.

Egg pasta cut into small pieces and cooked in broth is one of the oldest preparations in the country kitchens of central Italy: a way to make broth more filling with very few ingredients.

The name changes from village to village, and in Abruzzo «volarelle» means both these little squares and other small homemade pasta shapes.